Dynamics of skin barrier repair following preconditioning by a biotechnology-driven extract from samphire (Crithmum maritimum) stem cells

Summary Background  With aging, the barrier repair kinetics following any weakening of the epidermal permeability barrier function is commonly slowed down. Objective  To assess the recovery rate of the epidermal permeability barrier function following controlled stripping and applications of samphire and control formulations. Method  In 12 healthy subjects older than 50 years, controlled stratum corneum (SC) strippings were used to increase the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) just above 15 g/m2/h. This procedure followed a 14-day skin preconditioning by daily applications of formulations enriched or not with a samphire (Crithmum maritimum) biomass. An untreated skin site served as control. The epidermal permeability repair kinetics was assessed for 14 days by daily measurements of both TEWL and the colorimetric value a*. Results  A rapid (96 h) recovery to lower TEWL values was obtained at each of the samphire-preconditioned sites (0.1% serum, 0.05% cream, the serum–cream association, and 0.5% silicone oil). This process was significantly (P < 0.001) faster than that on both the placebo-preconditioned (silicone oil) and the untreated sites. No adverse inflammatory and sensory reactions were recorded. At the sites preconditioned by samphire formulations, the SC moisture (capacitance) was higher at completion of the study compared to inclusion. Conclusions  The present experimental pilot study brings some clues supporting a beneficial boosting effect of samphire cell biomass on the kinetics of epidermal permeability barrier repair.