Double emulsions based on silicone-fluorocarbon-water and their skin penetration

Abstract Double emulsions have significant potential in pharmacy and cosmetics due to the feasibility of combining incompatible substances in one product and the protection of sensitive compounds by incorporating them into their innermost phase. However, a major drawback of double emulsions is their thermodynamic instability and their strong tendency to coalesce. In the present study, the physicochemical stability, the skin permeation and the skin penetration potential of modified semi-solid double emulsions was investigated. The double emulsions were prepared of the cosmetically applied perfluoropolyethers Fomblin ® HC/04 or Fomblin ® HC-OH, silicone, carbomer and water. Measurement of the droplet size and examination of the microscopic images confirmed their physicochemical stability over the observation period of eight weeks. Franz-type diffusion cell experiments revealed no increase in curcumin permeation due to the employed perfluoropolyethers compared to the respective control formulations. The formulations used as control were O/W macroemulsions with or without a Polysorbate 80/Sorbitane monooleate 80 surfactant combination. Likewise, tape stripping studies showed no penetration enhancing effect of the employed perfluoropolyethers which is desirable as both perfluoropolyethers are commonly applied components in human personal-care products.