Numerical simulation of irregular water waves in coastal surf zones

On the basis of the parabolic mild-slope equation for irregular water waves and two wave energy dissipation factors due to breaking wave effect,the distribution of breaking wave heights has been numerically simulated,and the numerical results have been analyzed and validated by experimental data.It is shown that the two wave energy dissipation factors due to wave breaking effect adopted here can both achieve a good agreement between the numerical and experimental results,and the breaking water wave energy dissipation factor and breaking wave index parameter play important roles on the distribution of breaking wave heights in surf zones.