Mesures de houles partiellement stationnaires en zones côtière et littorale en présence de courant

In the present work, methods for partially standing wave measurements in the presence of current by use of coincident measurements of both horizontal velocity and pressure or vertical velocity are described. Taking advantage of experiments carried out in an ocean wave basin for both regular and irregular waves in the presence of current, comparisons are made for reflections calculated from either coincident horizontal and vertical velocities or three gauge methods. Application to field measurements outside and in the breaking zone are then presented. It is shown that the use of coincident horizontal velocity and pressure, or coincident horizontal and vertical velocities far from the bottom, give relevant information concerning partially standing waves nearshore.