Effect of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) on the ESR spectra of the red and black hair: pheomelanin free radicals are not always present in red hair.

Increased incidence of melanoma in the population with red hair is conditioned by synthesis of pheomelanin pigments in the skin and their phototoxic properties. The recent research has shown that free radicals of pheomelanin are produced not only by the influence of UV irradiation, but also in UV-independent pathways of oxidative stress. It has been ascertained, that the color of the hair is not always determinant of the amount of pheolemanin radicals in red hair. Therefore, in order to evaluate the risk of melanoma in different individuals, it is necessary to define the amount of free radicals of pheomelanin in red hair using ESR spectroscopy method. Besides, it is very important to find effective antioxidant, capable of neutralizing free radicals of pheomelanin. It was proved that ascorbic acid neutralizes free radicals of pheomelanin very effectively. The main goal of our research was to define the presumably optimal concentration of ascorbic acid as an antioxidant and study the kinetics of the influence of this concentration on red and black hair. It has been found out, that ascorbic acid influences the free radicals of red and black hair, and its appropriate optimal concentration is 10 mM. The obtained results can be considered in dermatology and cosmetology. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.