Validation of a predictive method for sunscreen formula evaluation using gene expression analysis in a Chinese reconstructed full‐thickness skin model

OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to establish a predictive in vitro method for assessing the photoprotective properties of sunscreens using a reconstructed full-thickness skin model. CONCLUSIONS: Dans cette etude, nous montrons que la quantification de la modulation genique dans le modele de peau reconstruite est une approche biologiquement pertinente offrant une sensibilite et une predictibilite pour evaluer les produits de photoprotection. RESULTS: The reconstructed skin model was histologically consistent with human skin, and upon DUVR exposure, the constituent fibroblasts and keratinocytes exhibited transcriptomic alterations in pathways associated with oxidative stress, inflammation and extracellular matrix remodelling. When used to evaluate sunscreen protection on the model, the observed level of protection from UV-induced gene expression was consistent with the corresponding protection factors determined clinically and allowed for statistical ranking of sunscreen efficacy. CONCLUSIONS: Within this study we show that quantification of gene modulation within the reconstructed skin model is a biologically relevant approach with sensitivity and predictability to evaluate photoprotection products.