Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions

A XBeach surfbeat model is used to explore the dynamics of natural headland rip circulation under a broad range of incident wave conditions and tide level. The model was calibrated and extensively validated against measurements collected in the vicinity of a 500-m rocky headland. Modelled bulk hydrodynamic quantities were in good agreement with measurements for two wave events during which deflection rips were captured. In particular, the model was able to reproduce the tidal modulation and very-low-frequency fluctuations (≈1 h period) of the deflection rip during the 4-m wave event. For that event, the synoptic flow behaviour shows the large spatial coverage of the rip which extended 1600 m offshore at low tide, when the surf zone limit extends beyond the headland tip. These results emphasize a deflection mechanism different from conceptualised deflection mechanisms based on the boundary length to surf zone width ratio. Further simulations indicate that the adjacent embayment is responsible for the seaward extent of the rip under energetic wave conditions. The present study shows that the circulation patterns along natural rugged coastlines are strongly controlled by the natural variability of the coastal morphology, including headland shape and adjacent embayments, which has implications on headland bypassing expressions.