Irradiation of skin and contrasting effects on absorption of hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds.

2009 
Increasing legal requirements for risk assessment and efficacy testing in the dermo-cosmetic field have led to the development of alternative test methods. In this study, the porcine skin model was chosen to test the effect of irradiation on the penetration habits of UV filters and caffeine. For decades, the pig has been recognized as an experimental animal in biomedical research thanks to its morphological and physiological similarities to humans. In this study, we wanted to investigate the effect of UV irradiation on the absorption of octocrylene (OC) and benzophenone-3 (B3) sunscreens used under those circumstances and a model hydrophilic molecule, caffeine (Caf). These particular compounds were chosen due to their different lipophilic profiles. The percutaneous penetration of the two UV filters and Caf was studied after two simulated solar radiation doses of 61.4 kJ m ―2 . After irradiation simulation, the total absorbed dose was increased for OC while for B3 and Caf it was lower. Thus, modifications in percutaneous absorption have been observed, and it appears that UV could play a crucial role in this process. Moreover, it has been observed that the lipophilic profile of the studied compounds affects percutaneous penetration when irradiated.
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