황련염색 피혁물의 가지처리에 관한 연구: 우피의 염색성과 가지처리에 의한 물성 변화에 관하여

This was a study examining the fatliquoring of natural dyed cow skin with Coptis chinensis Franch. The K/S according to optimal dyeing condition, mordants and mordanting method was measured. And the surface, sections, tensile strength, elongation, stiffness and colorfastness according to post-dyeing fatliquoring were observed. The optimal conditions include 300%(o.w.f.), 50℃, 30 minites. Fe-simmordanting showed the highest dyeability. Coptis chinensis Franch showed a yellow color regardless of mordants and mordanting methods. Tensile strength and elongation increased in the case of simmordanting compared with untreated and the process of fatliquoring further increased. The softness significantly increased when fatliquored. Shrinkage was slightly reduced when dyed, but showed almost no change with fatliquoring. Lastly, color fastness increased overall with mordanting and partly increased with fatliquoring. The rubbing and light fastness were excellent Cu- mordanting, and drycleaning fastness also improved with Cr-mordanting.