Zum sozialen Gebrauch von Tracht. Aussagemöglichkeiten hinsichtlich des Nachweises von Migrationen

Clothes, particularly their preserved components, are of crucial importance in the archaeological verification of migrations. The commonest general argument is drawn in general from an ethnic interpretation of particular costume and the postulation of its constant significance. Ethnographic investigations contradict this. A particular costume has an essential function of social communication and action according to its symbolic character. Its specific character within a social group not only makes it possible to show personal conformity with the various group norms but also the controll of the wearer's behaviour by the group. In addition, costume has a clear identity providing effect. Its function of reflecting social norms and values, as well as its its function of demonstating social positions leads to changes in the attitude towards costumes according to social and personal changes. For late Roman times and the early Middle Ages, contemporary written sources give evidence of corresponding use of costume. The archaeological evidence of migrations turns out to be problematical as the social use of costume is not taken into account in a satisfactory manner. In ist use to trace migrating groups, the ethnic interpretation of archaeological evidence can lead to false conclusions.