The Presence of Essential and Non-Essential Stratum Corneum Proteases: The Vital Need for Protease Inhibitors

Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer complete solutions that satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturizing treatments. The paucity of data for the underlying biochemical problems in and the effects of moisturizers on facial skin biology and physiology may partly explain this. Our recent color mapping studies based on bio-instrumental evaluations of skin capacitance and transepidermal water loss have revealed the complexity of facial skin. However, the biomolecular reasons for these subtle differences in the different zones of the face are unknown so far. As the maturation of the stratum corneum is vital for skin moisturization and optimal barrier function, we believe that the protease / proteaseinhibitor balance particularly of the plasminogen system may be key in these processes. Thus, our aim was to develop a specific dual plasmin and urokinase inhibitor for topical application to barrier-impaired skin and demonstrate its efficacy