In vivo multiphoton imaging for non‐invasive time course assessment of retinoids effects on human skin

BACKGROUND In vivo multiphoton imaging and automatic 3D image processing tools provide quantitative information on human skin constituents. These multiphoton-based tools allowed evidencing retinoids epidermal effects in the occlusive patch test protocol developed for antiaging products screening. This study aimed at investigating their relevance for non-invasive, time course assessment of retinoids cutaneous effects under real-life conditions for one year. MATERIALS AND METHODS Thirty women, 55-65 y, applied either retinol (RO 0.3%) or retinoic acid (RA 0.025%) on one forearm dorsal side versus a control product on the other forearm once a day for 1 year. In vivo multiphoton imaging was performed every three months, and biopsies were taken after 1 year. Epidermal thickness and dermal-epidermal junction undulation were estimated in 3D with multiphoton and in 2D with histology, whereas global melanin density and its z-epidermal distribution were estimated using 3D multiphoton image processing tools. RESULTS Main results after one year were as follows: a) epidermal thickening with RO (+30%); b) slight increase in dermal-epidermal junction undulation with RO; c) slight decrease in 3D melanin density with RA; d) limitation of the melanin ascent observed with seasonality and time within supra-basal layers with both retinoids, using multiphoton 3D-melanin z-epidermal profile. CONCLUSIONS With a novel 3D descriptor of melanin z-epidermal distribution, in vivo multiphoton imaging allows demonstrating that daily usage of retinoids counteracts aging by acting not only on epidermal morphology, but also on melanin that is shown to accumulate in the supra-basal layers with time.