Salers PDO cheese: the diversity and paradox of local knowledge

In protecting the geographical indications (GI), local knowledge is a main component to consider for justifying the link to origin. Drawing up the code of practices reveals the local stakes. Local know-how is embedded within a social group with its own common codes and norms. These local skills participate in the economic negociations and struggling around the GI. Salers cheese producers decided in 1961 to leave the cantal cheese PDO (Protected designation of origin) and create their own PDO in order to preserve a higher level of typicality. Doing so, this supply chain, based on seasonal products decided to keep the "gerle" - the traditional wooden vat - in the cheese making process. The first step of processing raw milk takes place in this "gerle" which affects the cheese specificity. As a mandatory element of the PDO, the "gerle" was recently questionned in the hygien regulation enforcement. The induced public controversy jeopardized for a while the whole supply chain and destabilized the cheese making methods. The influence of the ripeners is increasing in such situation and the difference between salers and cantal cheeses is reduced. Behind the tensions around the "gerle", difficulties emerge to build a collective concern as the high investment in time and work strengthen individualism. Too heterogenous or conflicting elements coexist : from Salers to Holstein breeds ; from 250 to 1500 litres wooden vats ; summer high pasture land and plain cheese makers...These elements are embedded in growing market situation. The research programme Proddig (Promoting sustainable development through geographical indications) explores the links between GIs and sustainable development. In this framework, a multidisciplinary group has shared their expertise during the campaigns 2006 and 2007. At first, we conducted an in-depth analysis showing how several options of the producers may influence the evolution of local knowledge inside the supply chain. While certification bodies know crucial reforms, Salers producers collectively question the place of their own skills facing the evolution of their production tool. Managed first by the cantal defence syndicate, salers supply chain has recently set up its own governance board, first step towards a collective apprenticeship. Today, salers supply chain is still weakened by the recent discord between supporters and detractors of the "gerle". The issue of this conflict ("gerle" confirmed as mandatory) may bring to the group under reconstruction some new bases for the future.