Nature, Origin and Technology of Natural Fibres of Textile Artefacts Recovered in the Ancient Cities around Vesuvius

Abstract Morphological and structural investigation of textile artefacts recovered from Pompeii, Herculaneum and Scafati was successfully carried out by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), optical microscopy (OM) and wide angle X-ray scattering (WAXS). The majority of the samples were carbonized as a result of the eruption of the Vesuvius volcano in the year ad  79 and therefore were blackish-brown coloured and very brittle. Only two textile fragments were recovered in a good state of preservation; the first was a cloth fragment characterized by a brown colour with green spots, the second was flock and peculiarly brown-green coloured. SEM, OM and WAXS studies allowed the identification of the nature, origin and molecular structure of the natural fibres and the determination of the kind of weaves used. In addition, cotton, broom, hemp, kapok and Graminae fibres, all obtained from seeds, stems and leaves, were recognized. Ovidae wool and Angora wool fibres coming from animal skin and byssus fibres coming from secretion of the Pinna mollusc were also found. Plain cloth and twill essential weaves were identified, together with derived weaves such as reps. The cassimere composite weave obtained without using a loom by intertwining parenchyma tissue of Graminae leaves was also recognized.