Prediction of Ocean Waves in Shallow Water. Keppel Bay, Queensland Recorded Data Analysis

Two empirical models: Shore Protection Manual model (SPM, 1984) modified later by Hurdle and Strive (1989), and Krylov model (described in Massel, 1996) were compared with field data recorded with a Datawell waverider buoy, installed at the depth of 22 m LAT, on the edge of Keppel Bay (Central Queensland, Australia). Four years of recorded wave data, and wind data from the nearest weather station located on Rundle Island was analysed. Analysis has shown that both models significantly overestimate predicted wave heights and periods compared with recorded ones. Vincent and Hughes (1985) formula for significant wave height in the depth-control wave train, when modified by the authors by including dispersion of waves, represents recorded data very accurately.