Not only wall paintings—pigments for cosmetics

Always very enlightening, the knowledge of the composition and production of ancient cosmetics has attracted the interest of diverse characterisation studies on archaeological residues in the last decades. Multi-analytical methods are the best option to attain a complete research, prioritising non-destructive techniques, and considering the complexity and the preservation of these ancient materials. X-ray diffraction, infrared and Raman spectroscopies, and electron microscopy with X-ray emission analysis are some of the most consolidated techniques to identify the composition and to reveal the technology of ancient makeups. The present review is mainly focused on the characterisation of inorganic pigments in these cosmetics, even if other ingredients of organic nature could be also included. Some more usual red, black and white components, like ochre, cinnabar, galena, cerussite and madder lake, are highlighted. A brief good practice guide for the analytical study of pigments in archaeological cosmetic residues is described at the end.