Transport sédimentaire associé à l'évolution morphologique des plages pour des vagues irrégulières : effets des asymétries de vitesse et d'accélération

This study is based on experimental simulations carried out in the LEGI flume for irregular waves. Sediment transport associated to cross-shore beach profile changes has been analysed using wave height, velocity and acceleration skewness, undertow current, and Shields number. For energetic waves conditions and a wave climate with a Dean number =2.5, the mean sediment transport rate is mainly offshore directed. In contrast, moderate wave conditions and a wave climate with =3.6 are associated to an onshore sediment transport. The wave asymmetries are shown to play a determinant role on the sediment transport direction and intensity.