Behind local cheese: comparing slow food Presidia and GIs governance systems

In this paper we compare two experiences of origin based labelling systems through the analysis of an iconic origin product, artisan cheese. We analyse one Geographical Indication (GI) (Chefchaouen goat cheese, Morocco), one Slow Food Presidium whose producers could also join a GI (Bearn mountain cheese and OssauIraty, France), one GI that is also a Presidium (PiacentinuEnnese, Italy). This paper addresses how these GIs and Presidia have been constructed and are articulated. In particular, it explores how rules and codes of practices are negotiated. The paper considers that GI and Slow Food Presidia differ in the degree of participation and collaboration among stakeholders, and hence in the way production practices are negotiated. (Resume d'auteur)