글로컬문화콘텐츠로서 중국 복식의 審美의식 연구

2017 
The purpose of this study is to recognize the importance of culture code of China that has come to the forefront as a blue chip in the cultural consuming market of East Asia as part of developing glocal cultural contents and to understand code of aesthetic of the implicit in Chinese traditional costume by examining an aesthetic sense of "harmony(和)" of Confucian reflected in Chinese traditional costume as a representative Chinese culture. The method of the research was to examine esthetic standards of Rite-Music(禮樂), Mun-Jil-Bin-Bin(文質彬彬), Perfectly Pure Beauty(全粹爲美), Yin-Yang and Five-elements(陰陽五行), and Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung(氣韻生動), which are the theoretical foundations of the aesthetics of harmony, through a precedent study and the data analysis of related publications, and extracted the aesthetic properties to apply to Chinese traditional costume. The absence of image materials that cannot be fulfilled with an illustrated guide to costumes was complemented through wooden dolls, clay dolls, mural paintings, portraits and Chinese genre paintings. The aesthetic values derived from esthetic standards that consist of the aesthetic sense of "harmony" are classified broadly into Hwahaejeog saengdong-mi, Yeuijeog wiui-mi, Jeoljedoen gangyeolmi, Sangjingjeog jangsig-mi and Hyeongsinui pungsinmi and soul and so forth. Based on this, the results of examining the aesthetic sense of "harmony" inherent in the Chinese traditional clothing are as follows. Hwahaejeog saengdong-mi is expressed in autonomous dynamic beauty in a kind of Sim Eui(深衣) containing the identity of Chinese traditional costume, Yeuijeog wiui-mi is shown in everyday wear as well as official uniforms worn to indicate a level of social standing, and the Jeoljedoen gangyeol-mi is markedly represented in the women"s clothing in China’s Song Dynasty. Sangjingjeog jangsig-mi is expressed in the ornate combination of colors of the ruling class" clothing and Hyeongsinui pungsin-mi is expressed in the semi-fitted style clothing which expresses a body line inarticulately by the smooth communication between the clothing and a person. It is expected that the above research will be helpfully utilized as the information of cultural contents in establishing the fashion design strategy of Korean apparel companies which aim to get to the Chinese market in the future thanks to the spread of Korean Wave.
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