Development of Functional Cosmetic Material Using a Combination of Hippophae rhamnoides Fruit, Rubus fruticosus Leaf and, Perillae folium Leaf Extracts

Purpose: This study aimed to determine the optimal blending ratio of extracts of Hippophae rhamnoides (H. rhamnoides ) fruit, Rubus fruticosus (R. fruticosus ) leaf, and Perillae folium (P. folium) leaf as a potential functional material for antiwrinkle, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening properties. Methods: We used the design of experiment (DOE) efficacy method to identify the optimal blend ratio for a natural extract complex. In addition, we tested the efficacy of the extract complex and the individual extracts by experiments, including elastase inhibition assay, NO inhibition assay, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, and ROS inhibition assay. Results: DOE methods using natural extracts showed that the most efficacious ratio of H. rhamnoides fruit: R. fruticosus leaf: P. folium leaf was 0.25:0.7:0.05. At this ratio, the elastase inhibitory effect, an indicator of wrinkle improvement, was 28% compared to the control. The antioxidant activity was 71.8% higher than the control. Additionally, NO formation was significantly suppressed by the extract complex. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity, a whitening index, showed 24.4% improvement over the control. Finally, hydrogen peroxide-induced cytotoxicity was significantly inhibited following treatment with the extract complex. Conclusion: The natural extract complex of H. rhamnoides , R. Fruticosus , and P. folium was found to have beneficial wrinkle improvement, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening effects, and has potential as a functional cosmetic material.