On the Alber equation for shoaling water waves

2021 
The problem of unidirectional shoaling of a water-wave field with a narrow energy spectrum is treated by using a new Alber equation. The stability of the linear stationary solution to small non-stationary disturbances is analysed; and numerical solutions for its subsequent long-distance evolution are presented. The results quantify the physics which causes the gradual decay in the probability of freak-wave occurrence, when moving from deep to shallow coastal waters.
    • Correction
    • Source
    • Cite
    • Save
    • Machine Reading By IdeaReader
    12
    References
    1
    Citations
    NaN
    KQI
    []