Foie gras: the two faces of Janus

JAVMA, Vol 230, No. 11, June 1, 2007 T recent ban on foie gras in Chicago is a polarizing issue, drawing highly charged opinions from politicians and the public. Surprisingly, there is a substantial lack of scientific or economic information in the discussion of the foie gras industry and the physiologic impact on force feeding. In this commentary, our goal is to analyze the multiple and frequently overlooked aspects of this situation, including the historic, biologic, and economic perspectives. Earliest evidence of the consumption and cultivation of foie gras arises from the Egyptians, who began cultivation practices after the observation that goose liver increased in culinary quality prior to migration. The practice of forced overfeeding was subsequently used to maintain consistent production of the delicacy. Roman manuscripts, including the Apicius, indicate Romans used force-feeding techniques in foie gras production as well. Jewish traditions are credited with maintaining the practice of overfeeding geese until the late 17th century, when several French chefs, including Francois de Varenne, introduced foie gras to their culinary repertoire. Foie gras subsequently became integrated into French cuisine, where the French traditionally consume foie gras on special occasions and holidays. In the United States, foie gras has steadily gained popularity, but has remained predominately in the province of fine dining.