Un modelo basado en las ecuaciones de la pendiente suave para la propagación del oleaje y el transporte de sedimentos

The description of a phase model which solves the equations of wave propagation through the approximation of the mild slope is presented. The model, developed in the context of the “Litoral Project Model of the Coastal Zones - LIZC” , performs a data processing that allows the transformation of a completely linear waves (no sediment transport) to a nonlinear wave in order to model sediment transport in shallow areas properly. In the simulation all possible sea states of a particular period are used, bearing in mind not only the influence of waves on the bottom, but also the effect of bottom on the waves; obtaining the evolution of the bathymetry for the period under study.